The History of Diamond Jewelry: Symbolism, Luxury, and Eternal Beauty
Few gems have captured human imagination quite like the diamond. These precious stones symbolized power, beauty, and eternal love. Diamonds have journeyed through centuries of history–transforming from mystical talismans into the ultimate expression of commitment. Let’s take a closer look at where it all began, the key milestones along the way, and how we arrived at the diamond traditions we know today.
Ancient Origins: India and the World’s First Diamonds
The world’s diamonds were first discovered in India around the 4th century BC where they were gathered from riverbeds and treasured for their strength and rarity. At the time, diamonds weren’t cut to sparkle as they are now; instead, they were prized for their hardness, thought to hold protective and even healing powers. In Greek and Hindu tradition, diamonds were considered sacred, believed to be fragments of stars fallen to earth.
The fascination with diamonds eventually reached the Roman world. The Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder described the diamond as the hardest substance to man (adamas). His writings cemented diamonds’ reputation of durability in Western culture as indestructible and magical.
Royal Romance: Archduke Maximilian and Mary of Burgundy
A pivotal moment in diamond history was during the middle ages in 1477, when Archduke Maximilian of Austria proposed to Mary of Burgundy with a ring set that had thin-cut diamonds in the shape of an “M”. This is considered the first diamond engagement ring recorded in European history. Before, engagement rings were usually simple metal bands. Because the couple were among Europe’s highest nobility, their betrothal choice set a new fashion trend across the aristocracy with diamonds as a symbol of love and commitment.
Advances in Diamond Cutting: Unlocking the Sparkle
For centuries, diamonds were admired more for rarity than brilliance. That changed in the 15th century when Flemish polisher Lodewyk van Bercken invented the “scaif”, a polishing wheel that allowed facets to be placed with precision. This innovation transformed diamonds into gemstones that could reflect light, leading to early cuts like the table cut and point cut. During the Victorian era the old mine cut, old European cut, and rose cut were introduced.
Diamondrocks.co.uk
By the 17th and 18th centuries, cutters in Venice, Antwerp, and Amsterdam refined faceting further, creating (mazirin cut and peruzzi cut,) the ancestors of today’s modern round brilliant cut which is the sparkling standard we still use today. Shown are brilliant cut earrings, bracelet, and engagement ring.
Diamond Rush and the Industrial Era
The Indian diamond mines dwindled in the 1700s and Brazil became the world’s main diamond supplier. During the 1800s in South Africa, the discovery of diamond deposits (notably the Kimberley Mines) changed everything. WIth that rush came thousands of fortune seekers and led to the rise of powerful companies like De Beers who wanted to control the diamond supply and shape the diamond market.
This was the beginning of increased diamond supply with large-scale diamond mining and diamond production, giving birth to the modern diamond industry. This discovery also led to more accessibility in diamond jewelry for the middle class.
Diamonds with gem-quality stones became symbols of romance and luxury. The Victorian Era saw diamonds combined with colored gemstones like rubies and sapphires. Shown are a Vintage Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet and a Burmese Ruby and Euro Diamond Vintage Ring.
However, not all of the newly mined stones were fit for jewelry. Diamonds that were lower in quality (too cloudy, small, or flawed) were used for industrial purposes. During the Industrial Era, a large portion of these diamonds were prized and used for their hardness in cutting and grinding tools, diamond-tipped, drills and saws, and in applications in engineering, construction, and eventually electronics.
The Largest Diamond Ever Found: The Cullinan
In 1905, miners in South Africa discovered the Cullinan Diamond, a breathtaking 3,106-carat rough diamond–the largest gem-quality diamond ever unearthed. It was eventually cut into 105 smaller stones, including some of the most famous gems in the British Crown Jewels. Among them are the Great Star of Africa (Cullinan 1) a 530-carat diamond set in the Sovereign’s scepter, and the Cullinan II, a 317-carat cushion cut set in the Imperial State Crown.The Cullinan Diamond remains the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found. Below are the Cullinan and Cullinan I diamonds.
Photos by The Cape Town Diamond Museum
Large diamonds (5+) with both excellent clarity and strong color saturation are exceedingly rare, making them highly desirable for collectors and investors. Shown are examples of famous color diamonds featuring the Hope Diamond and the Pink Star Diamond.
Photo by Smithsonian and by Natural Diamonds
Modern Marketing: De Beers and “A Diamond is Forever”
While diamonds were already symbols of wealth, it was the De Beers marketing campaign in 1947 that made them universal symbols of love. The iconic slogan “ A Diamond is Forever” captured the idea that a diamond engagement ring was the ultimate symbol of eternal commitment. This campaign reshaped the diamond industry and solidified the tradition of diamond engagement rings for generations, increasing the demand for diamonds.
Diamond Grading System
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) introduced its diamond grading system–the 4Cs (cut, color, clarity, and carat weight) along with the International Diamond Grading System in 1953. This was the first time diamonds were measured and described with a consistent, standardized scale, giving both jewelers and consumers a common language for quality.
Before the 20th century, the descriptions were vague and accuracy varied from dealer to dealer. GIA’s diamond grading accuracy scale replaced subjective opinions with measurable, universal standards.
Today: Natural Diamonds, Lab-Grown, and Ethical Choices
Today diamonds are sourced globally–from Africa to Russia, Canada, and Australia. Alongside natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds have surged in popularity, offering identical sparkle at a more affordable price. Younger buyers in particular are drawn to their accessibility and ethical appeal. At the same time, natural diamonds continue to be celebrated for their rarity, especially large flawless stones and fancy-colored diamonds that remain prized by collectors.
Technology has also transformed the craft of diamond cutting. Lasers, computer modeling, and 3D scanning now allow cutters to maximize brilliance and symmetry with precision unimaginable to earlier artisans with creative fancy cuts (princess, radiant, oval, cushion, heart, etc.) Shown are a princess cut, radiant cut and oval cut diamond engagement rings.
Today’s engagement rings trends are wonderfully diverse. Vintage-inspired cuts like cushion, emerald, and pear are making a stylish comeback, while sleek modern designs and unique alternatives continue to capture attention. Featured are cushion cut, emerald cut, and pear cut engagement rings.
From Mystical Stones to Symbols of Forever
The story of diamonds spans more than two millennia: from sacred talismans in India, to Pliny’s writings in Rome, to royal proposals in Burgundy, to record-breaking discoveries and modern market genius. Today diamonds remain unmatched in their ability to capture light and love.
When it comes to diamonds, trust and expertise make all the difference. At E.D. Marshall Jewelers, we go beyond simply selling jewelry–we guide you through every step of the journey so you feel confident and excited about your purchase.
Because we are deeply connected within the diamond market, we source stones through an extensive network that allows us to secure exceptional quality at the best possible value. Our selection is carefully curated and includes diamonds graded by leading institutions like the GIA, so you know exactly what you’re getting.
We take the time to listen, whether you are searching for the perfect diamond engagement ring, exploring custom designs, or upgrading a treasured piece. Our skilled jewelers and designers help bring your vision to life with craftsmanship and care.
When you shop at E.D. Marshall Jewelers, you don’t just leave with a diamond–you leave with confidence, a story, and a piece of jewelry that reflects your love and style for a lifetime.